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August 30th, 2009

between: (Default)
Sunday, August 30th, 2009 04:45 pm
August 12th

My to-do list keeps getting put further and further off, which is ok, because I have all the time in the world. As long as I get to the co-op before I run out of food. (**Jump to the present, ACTUALLY, this not okay, I’m way too busy now!**)

A teacher from a local private school who is about my age contacted me to see if she could use my internet to Skype her parents. Of course I said, “Yes, any time.” I’m not overly dependent on the internet, myself, but I still think it’s very troublesome not to be able to get on once in a while to get organized. I had to wait around for the gas man to come anyway (Get this - between 3PM and 8PM! Japanese service hours are so convenient!).

So she came over and I continued cleaning the kitchen, now that the whole apartment was mine. At that point, I learned a lot about her through my paper thin walls lol We got boxed dinners from the co-op afterward and I learned a lot of valuable things from her, since she’s been here for so long. While we were waiting in line at the co-op, the woman from the self-check section flagged us over to teach us how to use it. Personally, I’d always wanted to know but was kind of afraid to ask, so that worked out well. I understood almost everything she said the first time. My Japanese is getting better ^.^ I got a pork stir fry and gobo (some weird root I like to eat drenched in sesame oil) and she got tri-color soba. True to form, like everyone else who has ever eaten soba in my living room, she spilled the soba sauce on my rug. That makes 3 of us (myself included), with a 1:1 soba-to-spill ratio for the apartment.

The gas man came shortly thereafter and I told him upfront to speak simply and slowly in Japanese. There was once or twice where I didn’t understand him, but I did know the words he was using, so the second time around I got it. I’d been so scared but it all worked out! Whoopee!

The other teacher told me about how she did JET for 3 years but got sick of not doing very much as an assistant, so now she’s working as a full time teacher at a Christian school where no one on the staff or in the study body is Christian (lol, whut?). In fact, she’s strict atheist. Apparently, as part of her job, she’ll get to go on a one month home stay trip to Australia for free (while being paid) as a supervisor with the girls. She gets to because she’s a woman and the students are girls, but she’s sure that if that wasn’t the case, the principal would’ve sent the male English teacher because he doesn’t like women and he doesn’t like foreigners. So far, I haven’t had any problems like that. I keep thinking about how lucky I am in my placement.

She talked a bit about pop culture, adjusting to new lifestyles, isolation, friendship, and dating. The dating part was interesting. We were talking about Japanese marriages and how they tend to be American men with Japanese women and not usually the other way around. In Japan, there’s a culture of the women doing the chasing. Men are shy and they are used to being taken care of, so the women dote on them and chase them. Also, she said there have been a lot of people, married and otherwise, who feel like she’s been flirting with them when she hasn’t, and apparently if you spend a lot of time with someone of the opposite sex, people will assume you’re dating. She said it’s quite hard to make male friends, for that reason. But again, like everyone else, she encouraged me to try, though she also told stories of American friends with mean Japanese boyfriends. I don’t know though, I kind of get it but I think there’s more to understand than what I’ve learned thus far.

There’s only one big problem with being this girl’s friend. It’s going to take a while to get over the fact that she reminds me so much of The Batshit Crazy Roommate.

This other teacher has been in Japan for three years, so she’s got the culture body language down. It doesn’t bother me in the context of Japanese, but when you’re speaking English with another American, it’s kind of annoying. She makes a noise of agreement after everything you say, she apologizes too much, and she even has a unique giggle. She wears bookish glasses. Her stature is the same. There are awkward pauses because she is awkward. Yeah...they're a lot the same so far.

It helps me understand why The Batshit Crazy Roommate was the way she was though, realizing some of her otherness was from using Southeast Asian body language learned from her mother. I can forgive that, I guess, but seeing it in this woman after having such negative feelings about the only other U.S. American I know who does that...well...it made me kind of sick. I had a good enough time talking to her, but she stayed until almost 9 o’clock, and all I wanted to do was get my apartment in order. By the end, it was all I could handle.

When she finally left, I was getting a little surly because of the associations kicking in. Didn’t get much done, but I did a little. When I went to bed that night, I settled in my dirty gross bedsheets...then I realized that The Pred was gone, so I could finally use the good bedding!! Yaay. I’m still going to buy a new comforter but the sheets and pillows and such are fine, thankfully.
between: (hydrangea)
Sunday, August 30th, 2009 04:57 pm
August 13th

It started out as a normal day, I was sitting at my desk studying the hell out of my Japanese textbook when one of the two English teachers who has not yet introduced himself marched over and began mumbling to me incoherently in English. Unfortunately, I can’t think of a nickname that fits his eccentricity in a more flattering way, so for now I’ll call him mumbles-sensei.

Anyway, he understands English at what might be a higher level than any of the other teachers, but speech wise...well...he’s an eccentric old man and I like him. I figured out he wanted me to go see the gym with him, which I’d already seen, but he wanted to take me anyway so I went.

I got to see badminton and handball. What the heck, have you ever even heard of handball? Apparently it’s like basketball and soccer together, and I thought it looked really badass. I guess it’s not very popular in Japan, but our school managed to put together a team. I think the boys on the handball team have been among the most excited to meet me yet lol

On my way back out, we passed the kyuudou (traditional Japanese archery) area and I mentioned I’d been wanting to see them. Before I knew it, we were on our way outside! As it turns out, the kyuudou arena is a little house with open windows that leads to a fenced-off grassy knoll with tiny little targets at the end. It’s the coolest thing I think I’ve ever seen, sports wise. The kids noticed me and immediately invited me in, offering me a special cushion to kneel on away from where the waiting archers sat on athletic mats. Several of them were very excited to speak to me in English and they all conferred amongst each other to figure out the English questions for what they wanted to know about me. They offered me a chair to sit in, but I didn’t want to be “that American,” so I refused at first, but eventually I had to take them up on it because my feet were falling asleep. I went back on my knees to ask them some questions in return, but my legs really suffered for it. I’m glad I didn’t end up falling over when I got up.

Occasionally the tennis players would peek in to eye the encounter jealously.

Anyway, the students were great and I’m not sure there’s anything cooler than kyuudou, except maybe kendo. They all wear white yukata-style wrapped shirts with the big skirt pants of traditional flair. It’s They fire 3 foot arrows from stringed 6 foot bows. It’s very formal, body language-wise. To shoot, they approach the window holding one end of the arrow to their hips like regale tail feathers. They settle perpendicular to the window and draw the string back above their heads. Slowly the pull it down so it almost brushes their cheeks, and when they release, they let the bow flip orientation in their hands. If someone hits the target, they all shout “Yosh!” Apparently they’re practicing several hours a day, wave after wave of archer, because there’s a big tournament next month.

I think I might try to join this club. I’ve always had a soft spot for archery, and I’ve been stalking club members all week lol

When I got back to my desk, I was just about thinking I would leave since it was about noon and that was the time they told me, “unofficially, that is officially when you can leave until school starts,” when suddenly the vice principal approached me.

“Stephanie-san, what do you plan for lunch?”
“Hm. I don’t know yet.”
“Well, lunch is an hour, so you can go home if you want to!

...Ok, so does that mean I should come back? I think it does. So for lunch I ran home to eat some Japanese yogurt (which really tastes more like cream cheese than yogurt) and instant ramen (which really tastes a lot better than U.S. instant ramen).

I was prepared to stick around for a little while, but I ended up staying all the way until 5:30 even though technically even my work day during standard school days ends at 4:30. I’m prepared to stay way late into the night, as is Japanese custom, during regular days, but during vacation? It majorly screwed up my plans, to say the least, since I’d planned to do laundry, grocery shop, pick up supplies for the apartment, exercise, and clean the be-jesus out of this place. It ended up being all right though.

About an hour into my return, the vice principal came back to talk to me. He started talking about his English studies, and when I tried to ask him where he was learning English, he said, “Right here! With you!” Lol Right on! New student. So we ended up talking for several hours. He went over my Japanese textbook, making sure to teach me a little Japanese, and then reversed the exercises to English. We talked about our families, which are the same in number of people and ages, and I taught him “snow blower” and “lawn mower” in honor of my dad lol Apparently his son lives in New York, so we talked a lot about Skype, time differences, and homesickness.

Talking with him made me realize I have a lot to learn about Japanese pitch accents. Japanese isn’t a tonal language, but there are certain words that change meaning when they’re inflected differently. I know nothing about that at this level of Japanese and no one ever really talks about it in linguistics, except for in passing. Anyway, we had a long chat and he ended up facilitating some relationships between me and some other teachers. It really helped break the ice. It’s good to make friends with the vice principal, I think. I even showed him the kanji translation game on my DS and he was fascinated, though I’m not sure why, since he was using an electronic dictionary that I’m sure cost a lot more money. I think he just liked the stylus :) Another fun time was explaining parts of the leg. In Japanese it’s just all “ashi,” they don’t discern between leg or foot or anything. This reminds me of how, in Spanish, there are different words for the inside of the ear and the outside of the ear. One of the wonders of language variation – there are multiple acceptable way to handle things and it doesn’t affect the communication of the speakers.

Today I also realized that I will probably get a lot of attention from the students in the teacher’s office, considering my desk is closest to the door and also facing it.

When I got home I immediately started some laundry. Unfortunately since everything needs to hang dry and it’s rainy out (and night time) I had to hang things all over my apartment and set up some racks and fans. Unfortunately, even after an entire night out with the fans on, things were still damp. I’ll probably have moldy clothes :( Additionally, I left the windows up so there would be airflow and it rained onto my unfinished wood window sills and floors...shit.

While I was making sesame rice with pork, my neighbor ALT knocked on my door to invite me to the movie rental place with him. I declined because of everything going on just then, but said I’d stop by later. We took a short walk again later, and now it’s just me, my odds and ends, and my blog.

As of today, I have successfully identified two more mystery items as sweet bean jelly (DELICIOUS) and fever heating pads for the forehead. I’d promised myself that I’d start going to bed earlier, since I’ve been staying up so late – but it doesn’t look like that’s going to happen.
between: (Default)
Sunday, August 30th, 2009 05:02 pm
I worked really hard to make myself a bentou to eat at work after yesterday’s lunch clarification. I even cooked it myself so it wouldn’t be like, “oh look the foreigner doesn’t know how to eat in Japan!”...and then I forgot it on the kitchen counter. Fortunately there’s a few omiyage reciprocity snacks and some fig newtons in my desk. Diet day! I’m sure I could go home and get it, or go to a conbini, but I kind of don’t feel like it. Luckily this is a school and so I can get some decent milk and juice from the vending machine.

The walk to work today was atrocious. I’d been lucky and had been able to avoid the rain for the last two weeks. It’s rained a lot but never when I’m outside, oddly enough. The whole walk was a battle with the umbrella, carrying heavy things that shouldn’t get wet. I got entirely soaked on one side and when I got to school I was an awful mess. Fortunately, though I was a few minutes late, no one was in the teacher’s office when I arrived. The vice principal came in shortly after I was settled and made a big old fuss about getting me some tea and making sure I didn’t get catch a cold. So I guess again, my misfortune is working out for me.

Mick-sensei was back from his time off, so we stood and talked for a while with the vice principal and then another teacher joined us. I’d noticed him before, but when he told the VP we’d met, I was a little baffled because I hadn’t remembered *actually* meeting him. We talked for a while and I felt like a grown up, chatting around the water cooler. I made the mistake of mentioning that The Pred just left a few nights ago, and Mick-sensei made a big show of being shocked and disgusted. I tried to be nice about my workload in cleaning the apartment by saying we had different standards for cleanliness, and he jumped on it right away, saying, “Yeah, she was just...ugh...*shakes head*. All the time she’d leave messes in the staff kitchen, y’know. It was awful, y’know.”

And it was that point when I made a mental note never to cross anyone in Japan.

Fortunately, the VP took me on a tour (best one yet, since he has keys to everything!) and we saw the mystery teacher “I’d already met” in the art room, and then it all made sense! I remembered we’d actually had an extensive conversation in his classroom before! I also got to meet one of the bio teachers, and it was awesome because he showed me turtles and leeches and this badass fish, along with all sorts of newts and things. And also a vial of fruit flies lol Literally, a vial with a rag stuffed in as a cork/feeding device. I also saw the principal’s office while he wasn’t in it, and it’s about the size of the first story of my house at home, with all sorts of fancy lacquered wood and office tables. It was “tots liek whoa!” I saw the sewing and cooking rooms, which are totally high tech, and I hope to God the teacher invites me to some classes.

I saw saki-chan again, of course, the girl I see everywhere lol Her and her friends were studying English in one of the classrooms we invaded. One of her friends was almost as tall as me!

Later after sitting at my desk again, I got bored and went down to visit badminton and handball. There are two badminton coaches, the first is one of the only women teachers - she’s tiny and young and cute but she looks like she could cut you, and the second is a painfully shy man who is not shy in a cute way but in a “I’m going to completely ignore you ZOMG” way. The students are pretty talented though. They share the gym with handball and I chatted up the managers this time because they’d been eyeing me with such intrigue last time we crossed paths. I always feel good when I successfully navigate a conversation so that the students don’t bury their faces in their hands with embarrassment and or spend too much time conferring with each other before giving an answer. This one was a great success, we actually broke out of the “what is your name?” “do you have a boyfriend?” trap lol It’s also getting easier since I can understand their Japanese better, now I know what they’re shooting for.

I bought some cupboard liners so that I can actually put food and clean dishes in my cupboard without making them toxic. In other household related news, you know you’re in Japan when it’s been hanging for over 24 hours and your laundry still isn’t dry.
between: (hydrangea)
Sunday, August 30th, 2009 05:04 pm
8/14/09
Last night I made plans with Nao-san to go to the Mikoshi (portable shrine) parade. She invited me to her home to meet her friend Mike at 3, since it’s a holiday today and all (Obon). With my extended hours, I thought maybe I’d ask if I could leave early and it might be ok. This is kind of a stressful thing to do, what with trying to figure out the bus, get there, and get off of work (you don’t really ever ask to leave early in Japan). So this morning I decided to take the bike to work since I’d want to leave as soon as possible to get to the bus station after work. So I left the apartment ten minutes later than usual, since it wouldn’t take long to bike, but was I ever surprised when I opened the storage shed to find my bike was not there.

The Pred.

I have the key. I don’t have the bike. No one else has the key, so no one could have stolen it. It’s nowhere to be seen, which means she left it somewhere in the city. I was furious, because now I was probably going to be late. Well, I ran my ass to work and fortunately I was still a few minutes before 9 o’clock when I sat down at my desk, but that didn’t change the fact that I was hot, sweaty, and pissed. I texted The Pred immediately and curtly. I paid her for that bike, I let her and her husband use it for two weeks which meant I didn’t use it at all while they were here, and now she left it god knows where in the city? All the bikes and all the locks here look the same. How am I supposed to know it’s mine even if I see it? Will I have to try all the locks on all the bikes in the city? *sigh*

Mick-sensei was in the office again that morning and he came over to discuss things of both business and pleasure. His English is pretty much native, I’m noticing, which is astounding for a Japanese teacher of English in Japan. I’ve also noticed that his Japanese carries the Australian accent too lol He told me a little about my rent ($58! Lol) and discussed the drier issue. Unfortunately the board of education did not supply it, so they won’t fix it. He looked into new driers and drier repair and pretty much I’m looking at $500 if I want one, since most driers are all-in-one washers and there aren’t many service folks in my city by the sea. I was kind of disappointed, but he drove the point home that people don’t really use driers here, they hang their laundry. This is fine, until winter. Plus, my apartment is particularly muggy all the time, so it may always take forever to dry or worse yet, my clothes might mold. He did point out, however, that dehumidifiers would do the trick if I hung my stuff inside. I was thinking about that earlier, but I didn’t know if they used them here or not, Japanese homes not particularly being of the basement sort. He also said that if you buy it in Sapporo it’ll be cheaper and shipping is usually only $5! I’ll look around at the denki-ya’s in Sapporo when I’m at the conference on Monday, and maybe I’ll look online. I’d still end up paying something like $200 for a nice one, but at least then my house could also be drier. This moldy business is getting old.

While Mick-sensei and I were talking, I could help but bring up the bike incident. I thought twice, considering I didn’t want to look like a big old complainer and people usually consider it quite rude to complain in Japan unless you’re complaining to your absolute BFF, but I was just so upset and he responds so well to the airing of grievances against her. I mentioned what had happened and after a suitable amount of bitching, he reminded me that my bike registration had the bike number on it (fortunately we’d switched registrations before she left!) and even if I don’t find it, we can call the police and have them notify us if they do. This made me feel a lot better! Mick-sensei has been nothing but helpful and I’m very grateful to have him.

Fortunately The Pred returned my email and she thought maybe it was at school or the post office (I’m going with post office) and so we’ll see. I’m just glad she remembered because they ran a lot of errands on Sunday and it legitimately could be anywhere.

I got a little bored around lunch time and so I thought I’d go find some students. I began heading toward the gym but then felt like I’d bothered the athletes enough lately. They’re usually busy anyway. I was aiming to find shodou calligraphy students, but I stumbled across the art kids again instead. Two girls were reading manga and the same boy that’s always in there was sketching. I talked to one of the girls about the manga she was reading and it turned out to be Nana, and coincidentally, her name was also Nana! I told her I’d remember her name forever on account of that! I wandered about a little, trying to invent excuses to stay, and eventually we got to talk and joking around. When Nana revealed that her favorite actor was Johnny Depp, it lead to a lot of ridiculousness. I told them Public Enemies was filmed in my college town, but I couldn’t remember the name. As it turns out, it wasn’t released in Japan I don’t think, but I went to look it up, wrote a little blurb and drew a picture of myself giving the peace sign, and went back upstairs later to give it to them. When I came back, there were many more students in the room and they gave me a little cookie, which makes the third cookie I’ve received today, on top of other snacks people like to give me. Japan will make me fat after all! Anyway, everyone was really excited and we joked and I asked them who they loved and they asked me. The boy said Freddie Mercury and I ended up saying Johnny Depp (Jack Sparrow in particular) and Harrison Ford. If you can think of other people I should claim to love to get a big rise out of the kids, please let me know!

When eating the cookie from the art club, I realized that I’d seen this cookie on television last night. Lol fun. Upon reflecting on foods, I recalled something one of the other ALTs told me about how everyone always asks what you can and cannot eat, and what you do and do not like, but when this ALT told someone she didn’t like something that happened to be that person’s favorite food, she got really offended. Then I remembered, conversationally, I once told a woman I didn’t like boiled yams because I wanted to give her some answer instead of the same old “no no I can eat anything,” and she got all embarrassed and pathetically put her hands on her face and said, “oh, I really like those!” So in the future, I will always like boiled yams, I guess, unless I want to hurt people’s feelings. This seems kind of strange and sensitive, but then I realized that we do it in America too. Usually it’s ok if in passing someone says they don’t like something you happen to like, but if you KNOW they know you like it and they still make a big deal about not liking it, that’s very rude. The culture is the same in this instance, it’s just that in Japan there’s a lower benchmark for what’s not okay to say.

At the end of the day, not only did I not get out early, but I didn’t even get out on time. The Vice Principal wanted to have another chat session and I wasn’t sure I wanted to snub him, so I ended up missing the 5:30 bus. When I got on the next one 40 minutes later, it was a little nerve-wracking. You get on and take a stub to mark your boarding location, then at the end you put the stub in, it calculates your price, and you pay on the bus in cash. Seems a little time-consuming for a bus ride, but it must work. They have little buzzers instead of pull-chords, and fortunately I was able to read all the kanji that I didn’t miss my stop.

Nao-san lives in a cute little house closer to downtown. You can see a famous bridge from her cute little garden. We ate homemade pizza :) and not Japanese pizza either, but Italian style. It was nice eating something I could eat back home :)

When we arrived downtown, things were fairly quiet but starting to pick up. Just when I was starting to feel a little uncomfortable in the crowd, we ran into the other ALT in the City by the Sea and her husband and added them to our party. Together we watched some Yosakoi dancers, a fusion of traditional dance and Hip Hop that originated in Hokkaido. It was the coolest thing! I couldn’t even get pictures because they were going so fast. It was like a less aggressive but equally as energetic version of African dance, lots of flailing and grace. There was a little girl there who couldn’t have been more than 7 years old. She was wearing the same costume as the grown-ups and she was rocking it hardcore. They then invited the children in the audience to come out and dance with them, and I was amazing how quickly they were able to pick up the wild moves! It was a moment of jealousy for me.

And then the Mikoshi came. We only ended up seeing one, but it was all we needed. We saw people quickly clearing the streets as a swerving shrine charged down the street on the shoulders of maybe 20 or so men. Even better, they were all quite drunk and wearing nothing but gauze and silly costumes. One gentleman had a pair of underwear over his pants with a bicycle handlebars attached. There were young women riding around hanging on to the floats as they swerved almost uncontrollably back and forth across the narrow street. One man in front vigorously yelled directions into a microphone and the men carrying the float chanted back, “wasshoi!” Bystanders brought over bowls of water to throw onto them, whether it was to cool them off or to make things more interesting, I’ll never know, but it seemed like a common practice. A sake cart trailed behind them with all sorts of alcohol, and when the put the shrine down to take a break they tried to shake the women off first. I’d almost been hit in the face with a pole from the shrine because I was standing too close and it comes at you so quickly!

When they stopped, we were so tickled by the raucous younger dudes that we asked to take a picture with them which lead to more shenanigans, like them spitting beer into the faces of unsuspecting friends. Nao-san said she used to work with some of the older men at the newspaper, so it seemed just to be a cool thing for men to do in their spare time. You gotta hand it to Japan, they know how to work but they also know how to have fun.

They asked us about ourselves and insisted we drink with them, which was funny because we were just thrust beer cans and cups of sake from complete strangers, all in the spirit of celebration. (Drinking on the street is not illegal in Japan, so every time an ALT goes out drinking in the street, at least one cheeky picture of them drinking in front of a cop gets taken, but of course it’s silly because it’s legal. In fact, doing that last night we got some puzzled looks from women passing by lol). One of them men said I should get on the Mikoshi, but I respectfully declined lol Still, it was one of the most exciting things I’ve seen since coming to Japan.

After that we went up to the shrine, which was at the end of a million steps lined with lanterns. I thought it'd be great to come back in autumn when the leaves had changed :) Right before the main entrance there was a well of water where we washed our hands and rinsed out our mouths to approach the shrine (though apparently people don’t do the mouth thing so much anymore, what with sanitation concerns and everything).

There were little girls giving a dance recital of traditional dances in front of a small folding-chair audience. The band was live, which was cool, but the dance wasn’t very exciting. We stuck around for a while and got to see a man jump around on that same stage waving fans, and we saw several costume changes for the little girls. They were very cute, but less than dynamic lol Apparently they were going to throw mocha out into the crowd later, but we didn’t want to stick around any more, no matter how much we all liked mocha. On our way out we prayed at the shrine, and the man in charge gave us each a small pink sugar cookie. Or at least, he said it was a sugar cookie, and what he really meant was, it was a patty of pure sugar lol


Though fun as the evening was, when I swung by the post office on my way home, I realized there was no bike there :(